Lubing is the single most impactful mod you can make to your keyboard. It makes a bigger difference than most switch upgrades.
By lubing the stem and housing of a switch, you can eliminate scratchiness and dampen unwanted noise. The result is a smoother feel and "thockier" sound.
This post covers lube types, tools, the step-by-step guide, and common mistakes to avoid when lubing.
Table of Contents
- What Does Lubing Switches Actually Do?
- Types of Switch Lubes Explained
- Linear vs Tactile vs Clicky: Lubing Rules
- Necessary Tools for Lubing
- Step-by-Step: How to Lube Switches
- How to Lube Stabilizers
- Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Conclusion
- FAQ
What Does Lubing Switches Actually Do?
Switches have plastic-on-plastic contact between the stem and housing. That friction is what causes scratchiness.
Lube creates a thin barrier that reduces the friction on every keystroke, affecting sound and feel.
If you're not sure whether lubing is worth it for your setup, see Is Lubing Keyboard Switches Worth It? first.
Sound Impact
- Unlubed switches: Scratchy, higher-pitched, more "clacky"
- Lubed switches: Smoother, deeper, more consistent sound profile
Note: Heavier lubes create more sound dampening. Too much can result in a mushy, muted sound.
Feel Impact
- Unlubed switches: Scratchy downstroke, rough upstroke, spring ping on actuation
- Lubed switches: Smooth and consistent travel, softer bottom-out, no spring ping
Over-Lubing
The #1 mistake beginners make is lubing the tactile legs of a tactile switch. This effectively kills the bump that defines a tactile switch.
Also, over-lubing linears makes them feel sluggish rather than smooth and consistent.
Overall, lubing is a great way to make your switches feel fresh without having to buy a whole new set.
Lubing typically costs only $10-$15, while a new set of switches can cost $30-$60 or more.
Choosing the right lube matters as much as the technique itself. Here's what to use and when.
Types of Switch Lubes Explained
Not all lubes are the same. Using the wrong one can ruin tactility or make switches feel over-dampened.
The main variable for lubes is viscosity. Thin lubes preserve feel, while thick lubes create a buttery feel and reduce sound.
Quick Comparison Table
| Lube | Viscosity | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Superlube | Thin | Linears, tactiles |
| Tribosys 3203 | Thin | Linears, tactiles |
| Tribosys 3204 | Medium | Linears, tactiles (sparingly) |
| Krytox 205g0 | Thick | Linears only |
| Dielectric Grease | Very Thick | Stabilizers only |
Krytox 205g0
Krytox 205g0 has a thick, paste-like feel. It's best at delivering a buttery, smooth feel with linear switches.
Don't use heavy lubes like 205g0 on tactile switches. It's thick enough that it'll kill the bump.
Krytox 205g0 is one of the most popular lubes in the hobby and widely available online.
Tribosys 3203
Tribosys 3203 is a thin lube that works well with tactile switches. It's thin enough to preserve the bump while reducing scratchiness.
3203 also works on linear if you prefer a lighter application.
Tribosys 3204
Tribosys 3204 is a mid-weight lube that sits between 3203 and 205g0.
It's a versatile option that works well on linears and is borderline acceptable on tactiles if applied sparingly.
If you're unsure what lube to get, 3204 is a good starting point due to its versatility.
Superlube
Superlube is a budget-friendly alternative with a thin feel close to 3203. It's good for beginners who don't want to commit to pricier options.
A single tube typically lasts years, making it one of the best value options out there.
Dielectric Grease
Dielectric grease is an extremely thick lube designed for stabilizers only. Using it on normal switches will completely kill the feel and travel.
Choosing the right lube is only half the equation. How and where you apply it depends on your switch type, and getting it wrong can do more harm than good.
Linear vs Tactile vs Clicky: Lubing Rules
The type of switch you have determines how you lube, and how much.
Getting this wrong is the most common way to ruin a switch.
Linear Switches
When lubing linears, lube everything: the housing bottom, stem sides, stem bottom, and springs.
Go heavier on the stem and housing. 205g0 is ideal for full coverage.
Tactile Switches
Use thin lubes such as 3203 or Superlube. Lube the housing and stem sides while avoiding the legs.
The tactile legs are what create the bump. Any lube on them reduces or kills tactility.
When in doubt, apply less. You can always add more, but you can't undo an over-lubed tactile.
Clicky Switches
Do not lube clicky switches. The click mechanism relies on precise plastic contact, and lube disrupts that.
If your clicky switches feel scratchy, the answer is not lube. It's a different switch type.
Springs
Spring ping is separate from stem scratchiness. Always lube springs regardless of switch type.
Bag lubing is the fastest way to lube springs. Use a small amount of thin lube like 3203 or Superlube. 205g0 is too thick for bag lubing springs.
To do it, put the springs in a small bag, add a tiny amount of thin lube, and shake the bag to coat the springs in lube.
Now that you have your lube, here's everything else you'll need before you start.
Necessary Tools for Lubing
Before you lube, you'll need a few tools. You won't need much; the full kit costs under $20 and most of it is reusable.
Switch Opener
Costs $5-8, and is used to open the switch housing without damaging the clips.
You can use a flathead screwdriver as an alternative, but an opener is faster and safer.
Small Paintbrush
A paintbrush is used to apply lube to the switch components.
It should be size 0 or 00 to properly lube the stem and housing.
Any fine art brush works as long as it's the right size.
Keycap Puller
Necessary to take off the keycap before removing a switch to be lubed.
You can do it with your hands, but a keycap puller is much safer and faster.
Switch Puller
Only needed for hot-swap boards to remove switches without damaging the PCB.
This often comes with the keyboard itself.
Optional Tools
Lube Station
A lube station lets you hold stems upright while you lube them, speeding up the process significantly.
If you're lubing lots of switches (65+) at once, a lube station is worth it.
Stem Holder
A stem holder lets you hold the stem without touching the legs or sides, reducing fingerprint oils contaminating the lube.
Often bundled with lube stations.
Small Zip-Lock Bag
A small bag is necessary for bag-lubing springs.
Any small bag works; you likely already have one at home.
You have everything you need. Now let's start actually lubing your switches.
Step-by-Step: How to Lube Switches
Before you lube, remember that the process typically takes 2-3 hours for a full keyboard.
You should also do one switch first as a test before committing to the whole board.
Here's the step-by-step process:
- Remove the keycap: Use your keycap puller to take off the keycap
- Remove the switch: Use your switch puller to pop them out. If your keyboard is soldered, you'll need to desolder
- Open the switch: First, set the switch right-side up on the opener. Then push down on the stem and upper housing. Finally, pull the upper housing off carefully
- Lube the spring: To hand lube, pinch each spring and twist. To bag lube, drop the springs in a bag, add a small amount of thin lube, and shake for a minute
- Lube the bottom housing: Apply lube to the two rails where the stem slides
- Lube the upper housing: Apply a thin coat of lube to the inside walls of the upper housing where the stem makes contact
- Lube the stem: Apply lube to four sides of the stem legs (linear switches: all four, tactile switches: avoid the two legs that create the bump). Lightly coat the stem bottom, and avoid the top of the stem
- Reassemble and test: Place the stem firmly onto the bottom housing. Put the spring back on its original position. Snap on the upper housing. Press the switch manually to feel the difference. If it feels mushy or sluggish, you've over-lubed; wipe it down and reapply lighter
After you lube the regular switches, there's a special case: your stabilizers.
How to Lube Stabilizers
Stabilizers are separate from switches and require a different approach.
A common mistake people make is skipping their stabilizers, causing a noticeable sound issue on their keyboard.
What Makes Stabilizers Different?
Stabilizers use a wire and housing system, not a stem and housing system like switches.
They need a much thicker lube like dielectric grease for the wire, and a thin lube for the inside of the housing.
Using switch lube alone on stabilizers won't fix rattle.
What You'll Need
- Dielectric grease for the wire
- Thin lube like 3203 or Superlube for the housing interior
- A small brush
Step-By-Step Guide
- Remove the stabilizer from the PCB
- Apply dielectric grease generously to the wire where it contacts the housing
- Apply a thin coat of lube to the inside of the stabilizer housing
- Reassemble and test. The rattle should be gone or significantly reduced
For a full in-depth guide on stabilizer lubing, see How to Lube Mechanical Keyboard Stabilizers.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Most bad lubing jobs come down to the same handful of mistakes.
Here's what to watch out for.
Over-Lubing
The most common mistake overall. More lube does not equal better; it makes switches feel sluggish and muted.
If it feels mushy after reassembly, disassemble, wipe the stem and housing with a dry cloth, and reapply with a lighter hand.
Lubing Tactile Legs
This kills the bump that defines a tactile switch. Even a small amount on the legs noticeably reduces tactility.
Use a fine brush and work carefully around them.
Lubing Clicky Switches
This disrupts the click mechanism entirely. No amount of lube is safe on clicky switches.
If your clicky switches feel scratchy, the answer is a different switch type, not lube.
Skipping Springs
This causes spring ping, one of the most noticeable sounds on an unlubed board.
Lubing springs is easy, worth it, and only takes a few minutes. Don't skip them.
Skipping Stabilizers
Stabilizer rattle is louder than switch scratchiness on most keyboards.
Lubing switches without touching stabilizers leaves the biggest sound issue unresolved.
Using the Wrong Lube
This ruins tactility or over-dampens your switch.
205g0 on tactile kills the bump, and dielectric grease on regular switches kills the feel entirely.
Refer back to the lube types section if you're not sure what to use.
Using Too Large a Brush
This makes it hard to control application, and leads to over-lubing.
Stick to size 0 or 00.
When in doubt, apply less than you think you need. You can always add more, but fixing an over-lubed switch means starting over.
Conclusion
Lubing is the highest ROI mod you can do. Improved sound, better feel, for under $20.
The process takes patience, but the difference is immediately noticeable.
Start with one switch as a test before committing to the full board. Once you feel the difference, you won't want to go back to unlubed switches.
Shop lubes like the widely popular Krytox 205g0 in our keyboard switch lubes collection.
Related Articles
- Mechanical Keyboard Buying Guide: How to Choose the Perfect One
- Is Lubing Keyboard Switches Worth It?
- How to Lube Mechanical Keyboard Stabilizers
FAQ
What is the best lube for mechanical keyboard switches?
There's no "best lube". The answer depends on your switch type.
Krytox 205g0 is the most popular choice for linear switches, delivering a buttery, smooth feel.
For tactile switches, Tribosys 3203 or Superlube are better options as they preserve the tactile bump.
See our types of lubes section if you're still unsure what to use.
Can you lube clicky switches?
No. Lubing clicky switches disrupts the click mechanism entirely.
If your clicky switches feel scratchy, the solution is a different switch type, not lube.
How long does it take to lube switches?
Expect 2–3 hours for a full keyboard. Doing one switch first as a test before committing to the whole board is recommended.
Does lubing switches void the warranty?
It depends on the manufacturer. Most enthusiast-focused switch brands don't explicitly void warranties for lubing, but it's worth checking before you mod expensive switches.
Can you lube switches without desoldering?
Yes, if your keyboard is hot-swap. Hot-swap boards let you remove and reinstall switches without any soldering tools.
If your board is soldered, you'll need to desolder first.
How often should you re-lube switches?
Most lubing jobs last years under normal use. If switches start feeling scratchy again over time, a re-lube is worth doing.